Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
